MudslideTim wrote:Not sure how I feel about using automotive wax on the guitar or boiled linseed oil on the fret board?Wondering what some of you on here might think about this?Cheers,MSTI used Fret Doctor (a 'bore oil') to cosmetically darken my rosewood bridges and boards. On their site they state the following side effects and caveats about Linseed Oil, the veracity of which I can not testify to since I've never used it on guitars, or furniture:Linseed oil is more like a varnish than an oil.
Oct 29, 2018 Carnauba is used in most guitar waxing products but a car wax product will also do the job just fine. Can I use Turtle wax on my guitar? Yes, Turtle wax is a silicone-free based product and is one of the most popular brands when it comes to automotive cleaning which can be applied to the body of a cleaned and polished guitar.
![Car Car](http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/ZR20091/Matts%20Tele%20Build/006_zps4ff4bfbc.jpg)
Because it forms a continuous film, it seals the surface of the wood like a varnish, but oils of plant origin may later slowly penetrate down to the wood. It can take years.
It comes in many forms. The stuff from a hardware or art store is a paint variety, boiled or raw. Both of them stink. If you insist on Linseed oil, get the food grade from a health food store. This grade doesn't smell so bad. After multiple applications, nothing can penetrate it.
Bear in mind that, if a board is treated with Linseed oil, it will eventually turn black. Linseed oil oxidizes over time, turning black in the process. That is why so many Rosewood boards of the 50s and 60s no longer look like Rosewood. If you use Linseed oil, take any rags or brushes that are used and dispose of them outdoors. When left in a pile this stuff can spontaneously burst into flame. You then lose both your ax and your home.
Squeeze the bottle and screw the cap on tight, minimizing any air space in the container.Dave. Martins: 1962 0-16NY, 1967 000-28F, 1968 D-35S (two of them), 1972 D-1235, 1976 D-28S, 2001 00-37KSM, 2004 000-42, 2007 000-18KS, 2008 0-28VS Custom, 2013 Custom Shop 000-28K, 2014 Custom Shop D-18GE.
Moonstone: 2003 000-42 Adi/BRW.Gibsons: 1999 L130.Former Bandmates: 1903 Martin 00-42, 1958 0-18, 1961 Gibson LGO, 1968 Martin D-1235, 1975 Alembic Series II, 1991 Taylor 812 non-cutaway, Washburn 320SRWK, 'Mozart Concert' Beitel (?) parlor guitar. (Sold the 00-42, gave the rest to my son over the past 30 years.). Martins: 1962 0-16NY, 1967 000-28F, 1968 D-35S (two of them), 1972 D-1235, 1976 D-28S, 2001 00-37KSM, 2004 000-42, 2007 000-18KS, 2008 0-28VS Custom, 2013 Custom Shop 000-28K, 2014 Custom Shop D-18GE. Moonstone: 2003 000-42 Adi/BRW.Gibsons: 1999 L130.Former Bandmates: 1903 Martin 00-42, 1958 0-18, 1961 Gibson LGO, 1968 Martin D-1235, 1975 Alembic Series II, 1991 Taylor 812 non-cutaway, Washburn 320SRWK, 'Mozart Concert' Beitel (?) parlor guitar. (Sold the 00-42, gave the rest to my son over the past 30 years.).
Tippie53 wrote:Why would you want to wax?That's what baffles me too. Nitrocellulose lacquer is an extremely hard and durable gloss finish which needs no further 'protection' or enhancement by the application of wax of any kind. All it requires is preservation and maintenance by means of periodic cleaning, a simple procedure which is completely harmless and poses no risk whatsoever. Here's how:-Take two soft cotton or microfiber cloths and moisten one of them with plain, warm water. Wring it out, dry your hands and then place it between sheets of absorbent paper from a kitchen roll. Fold them up together and squeeze, then remove the cloth from the paper towel.
Working one section at a time (front, back or one side), wipe the dirt and grime from the guitar body with the damp cloth and follow it up with the dry one, the buffing effect of which restores the shine.That's it for routine cleaning, but the build-up of previously applied wax polishes can be safely removed with Virtuoso Cleaner which, unlike their Polish, contains no silicone. This will only need doing once unless, of course, fresh wax polish is subsequently applied: in that case, the procedure should be repeated immediately because polish is easier to remove while it is still fresh.Kev. Why would you want to wax?That's what baffles me too.I use the Zymol Cleaner/wax on occasion because I am too anal about the nitro finishes (which seem pretty sensitive to some common things).It is also why I wax my car on occasion (at least when new) - to help protect the clear coat.I just plain feel better about having an extra layer of protection. It seems when I play, which is always around the house, for some reason some sort of goo gets on the guitar. Sweat & finger oils for sure, lotion and deodorant, but often enough some gunk off the kitchen counter, or who knows what was on my pants or hands or??? If I played out?I would be even more likely more often.I find that the guitars clean up better and simpler with a bare/damp cloth, they feel & look fine, and I do feel better with some wax and/or polish (Martin's - gasp!) film on there.FWIW - I realize I don't worry nearly so much about my Taylor or Fenders - due to their polyurethane finish(?).